Corsica to Ireland - cycling project

Back in Corsica - a few pictures from Ireland.

2009-08-04T12:16:00.000-07:00

Not necessarily in any particular order...

Back in Belfast - mission complete.

2009-07-30T13:32:00.000-07:00

The trip is finished.
I am back in my friends' (Wojtek&Agnieszka&Maja&Filip) place near Belfast.
The tour of Ireland was basically very wet.
But there were also beautiful moments with the sun shining down on clifs of Moher, docs of Galway, Malin Head or in Dublin.
I have met many different people and seen lots of different places.
Another great experience :-)
Day by day description will be available soon.

Cycling around Ireland.

2009-07-19T03:39:00.000-07:00

After frantic cycling against W winds and through the showers of England and Scotland I made it on time to get on ferry in Stranraer. I have done my biggest cycling day of the trip on 15th of July as I have pedaled 216 km from Alston (UK) to Kirroughtree near Newton Stewart (SCO) and stopped at 03H30. I have met great girls and guys (Clair, Sam, Liam and Mark) from the Scotland's biking heaven in Kirroughtree. They were very kind and generous with me (and my bike) - thank you guys ! Also people in Dumfries' tourist information office (Scotland) were remarkably well informed (about cycling paths) and kind. I arrived in Belfast two days ago, on 16th of July. Yesterday was big information and maps getting day. People from Bikedock shop were very professional and kind and directed me to Sustrans' bureau. Where I have been given a pile of cycling maps of Northern Ireland and great information from very friendly people (thanks Patricia and Steven !). After 3000 km my bike got new tyres. Now I am having good rest in my friend's place near Belfast (thanks Wojtek&Aga&Maja&Filip !).
The last part of the adventure - the tour of Ireland should start today.
Once again, the thorough, day by day description of events will be done after my return to Corsica, in two weeks - all being well.
Projected return to Belfast in twelve days.
Big thanks to everyone who provided me with help these last days :-)

A pint of Guinness in Belfast.

2009-07-18T12:01:00.001-07:00

Waiting for the ferry in Ijmuiden (Netherlands)

Last sight of mainland Europe

Approaching Tynemouth (Newcastle)

Cycling from Tynemouth to Newcastle

On the C2C (Coast to Coast) near Consett

Storms in Scotland

Storms in Scotland near Dumfries (SCO)

Scottish cross

Lovely countryside

Trying an MTB in Kirroughtree (7 stanes)

Sam (bike expert) in Kirroughtree

Liam (bike expert and rider) in Kirroughtree

Modern shepherd in Scotland

Irish sea (Luce bay) - near Stranraer

to Ijmuiden - boarding a ferry to England

2009-07-13T01:35:00.000-07:00

Hi,

I made it to Amsterdam. In a few hours I should be on the ferry to Newcastle.
The weather last week was really wet. I took many showers and storms.
Happy to see the sun again :-)
Of course I don't have enough time to describe everything thoroughly at this time.
Here is a few pictures from yesterday :

to Amsterdam

2009-07-12T08:18:00.000-07:00

Tilburg - getting ferry tickets

2009-07-11T08:18:00.000-07:00

To Tilburg (Netherlands) - how to puncture a puncture proof tire

2009-07-10T08:17:00.000-07:00

(almost) to Tienen (Belgium)

2009-07-09T08:17:00.000-07:00

To Revin (Ardennes) - last day in France

2009-07-08T08:17:00.000-07:00

To Dannevoux

2009-07-07T08:17:00.000-07:00

To Commercy

2009-07-06T08:15:00.000-07:00

description coming soon.

To Epinal and further

2009-07-05T08:13:00.000-07:00

description coming soon.

Alsace and what's coming next.

2009-07-05T02:44:00.000-07:00

Hello again ! (next stage of talking to myself).
I have got LOOOOOTS to describe and also lots of pictures to post. BUT
At this moment I simply do not have enough time to spend on the computer as I am squatting the one of my friends' daughter in her room.
So far I have finished Corsica tour, Alpine tour through most of the highest passes including cime de la Bonette (2802 m), col du Galibier (2642 m) and col de l'Iseran (2770 m), I have cycled through Switzerland from Lausanne to La-Chaux-de-Fonds. At this moment I am sitting in my friend's place in Bitschwiller-les-Thann, typing these words. I should leave in short time, heading North-West to Epinal and then further North toward Rotterdam, where I should take a ferry to Hull. Until now I have made 1617 km and spent 97 hours and 25 minutes cycling. But these are only numbers. The real core of this voyage is people I have met along and magic places I have had a chance to visit. Wonderfull Corsica, beautiful Alpine valleys and high places, quiet landscapes of western Switzerland kind and joyful people in France and Switzerland. I have much more to write about them and their kindness and hopefully will do this soon. In the meantime I woud like to say enormous THANKS to everyone, who contributed to this trip. By a nice gest or smile, or much more, like Janka in Calvi (France - Corsica), Nicolas and Basia in Nice (France) Linda and the gang in Larringes (France), super-kind Christophe's family in Corcelles (Switzerland) and Stanislaw and Renata in here, Bitschwiller-les-Thann (France) and lots of others who will come back to these pages as soon as I have enough of time and an access to the internet.

to .. Bitschwiller-les-Thann again

2009-07-03T16:59:00.000-07:00

description coming soon.

to Bitschwiller-les-Thann (France - Alsace)

2009-07-02T16:57:00.000-07:00

description coming soon.

to Corcelles (Switzerland)

2009-07-01T16:56:00.000-07:00

description coming soon.

To Thonon-les-Bains and Larringes

2009-07-01T10:06:00.000-07:00

description coming soon

to Grand Bornand

2009-06-29T16:50:00.000-07:00

description coming soon

to Chapieux

2009-06-28T16:48:00.000-07:00

description coming soon.

to Lanslebourg

2009-06-28T16:46:00.000-07:00

to les Monêtiers-les-Bains

2009-06-26T16:44:00.000-07:00

description coming soon.

to Saint-Paul-sur-Ubaye

2009-06-25T16:43:00.000-07:00

description coming soon.

to Saint-Etienne-de-Tinée

2009-06-24T16:37:00.000-07:00

08H30 Departure from the town of Nice. Nicolas waves farewell as I am speeding down the Valrose. Then comes l'avenue Jean Medecin and la promenade des Anglais, full of people running, walking and cycling back and forth. At the airport Nice Côte d'Azur I turn right toward the jagged line on the horizon. The industrial part of the vallée de la Tinée is not too nice. But eventually after a few hooks and tunnels the things become much nicer. There is less cars and more rock.
13H15 Saint-Sauveur-de-Tinée (500m) - a stop for a beer and soda. The wind is getting stronger and the sky is partially covered with dark, grey clouds.
15H00 Isola - stop for a mug of fresh raspberries, bought from a friendly, elder guy. Who also gives me some precious informations about campings and restaurants ahead.
17H00 Saint-Etienne-de-Tinée (1100 m). Camping "du plan d'eau". I meet a fellow cycling tourist Andrew, a South-African, living in London. This guy is really courageous : not much training, simple equipement, yet he has done "la route de Grandes Alpes" from Switzerland to this place through the highest passes in Europe. He looks approprietly exhausted, with sunburnt face and tired but happy eyes. The supposedly best place for a dinner in the vicinity : "resto des Amis" is closed. So we have our load of pasta, along with a cool conversation in a little restaurant, not far from the camping.
Daily technical data : distance : 98 km / cycling time : 5H56 / average speed : 16,5 km/h / max speed : 45 km/h / total : 785 km / 44 hours

Nice to Geneva

2009-06-24T14:59:00.000-07:00

After one relaxing day with my friends in Nice (thanks Nico&Basia) it is time to set off.
Tomorrow in the morning I will leave Nice for Alpine route.

Après une journée tranquile à Nice (merci Nico&Basia) il est temps de partir.
Demain matin je vais quitter Nice pour la partie alpine.

Po spokojnym dniu w Nicei (dzieki Nico&Basia) czas uderzyc w droge.
Jutro rano opuszcze Nicee droga alpejska.

warm-up is finished, what's coming next..

2009-06-22T15:33:00.000-07:00

Today I am going to take a ferry to Nice.
In two days I will start the next stage ; cycling through the Alps.

Aujourd'hui je vais prendre le ferry pour Nice.
Après demain je vais commencer l'étape suivante : la traversée des Alpes.

Dzisiaj wsiadam na prom do Nicei.
Pojutrze zaczynam kolejny etap podrozy : przez Alpy.

quick synthesis

2009-06-22T15:30:00.000-07:00

Total : 670 km in 5,5 days
over 37 hours of cycling
average speed : 17,8 km/h

Corsica tour was exactly what it was supposed to be - a warm up and invaluable experience, as I am not a cyclist.
I understood, that if I was about to complete the project I should use less energy per day, hence cycle less and have more rest :-)
The state of my backside gives me some concern, so I have to use anti-chafing cream and wear really comfortable cycling shorts.

Day 6 - short leg against the wind to Calvi

2009-06-20T14:24:00.000-07:00

Day 5 - Cap Corse - back to the western coast

2009-06-19T14:24:00.000-07:00

Day 4 - annoying eastern part

2009-06-18T14:24:00.000-07:00

Day 3 - to Bonifacio and back

2009-06-17T14:24:00.000-07:00

Day 2 - meeting interesting people

2009-06-16T14:23:00.000-07:00

Day 1 - the beginning

2009-06-15T06:04:00.000-07:00

08H30 - I am leaving Calvi for Galeria by the coast-road. Right at the start I meet two fellow bikers - a couple of young Brits. We have just enough time to exchange a couple of joyful screams while I pass them by. The air is still, there is absolutely no wind and the heat is increasing rapidly. I stop only to take a few pictures. The island is still so green ! The last year situation was the same. But it's rather unusual for this part of the year. The "normal" look of Corsica for June is more yellowish due to the sun-baked plants. Heavy snow and rain-falls from the preceding months permitted to keep all of this freshness. The view is great and not without reminding me of my remote destination - Ireland.

11H30 - Hameau de Fangu (38 km from Calvi) - I am having sandwiches (prepared carefully yesterday by Janka - thanks !) and a Coca for a lunch. In front of me 11 km long climb and the heat is on. Even the cows are laying low in the shadow of the trees at this time of the day.
13H00 - Bocca di Palmarella (408 m). It's certainly not the first time in my life when I feel my body suffocating in the heat. But this one is the first for a long time. Fortunately, there's a bit of wind in the pass (corsican : bocca). A large group of Dutch cyclists coming from the other side is already there. They scream the words of encouragement as I press the last meters to the pass (thank you guys :-) ). At this stage I still do not need any encouragement as I feel powerful and confident. At the end of this trip I will crave for any sign of sympathy to boost my morale and force my painful body to obey. Many 'moto-bikers' and 'cagers' (a real hardcore tourists ;-) ) are trying to find some shadow below the small trees and bushes. Discarded garbage testifies the hordes of visitors stopping here. Admittedly the place offers wonderfull panorama of gulf of Girolata. After a quick halt for a snapshot and a drink I leave the overcrowded place without regret and attack the long descent toward Porto.
13H50 - Bocca a Croce (60 km from Calvi) - A halt to drink "une Orezza menthe" in the wooden hut and to gather the vital information from the local guy that "he is reparing the roof 'chez François' ".
15H45 - 2km to Porto (82 km from Calvi). Sitting in the shadow of the olive tree, having pasta (thanks Janka !), looking down on one of most beautiful places on the planet Earth : gulf of Porto and having... pain in the ass.
16H30 - Porto - I have planned to stop here for a quick, refreshing swim. But now I decide against it. There's way too many people for my liking. Off I go for the long climb to Piana.
The place is incredibly beautiful with all kind of naturally sculpted, pink granit rocks and pine forest providing life-saving shadow not to mention Calanches the Piana. But once again - too many people to feel comfortable so I only stop to take some pictures and again press hard on my bike's pedals toward Cargèse.
20H00 - Cargèse, a stop for lasagnes bolognaise and the best Corsican beer - Pietra. That's comfort-time :-)
21H30 - I stop at a little, sauvage beach and make my camp by laying the self-inflating matress down on the ground twenty metres from the humming waves. I fall asleep instantly only to be awoken a few hours later by the legions of spiders, ticks, beetles and ants crawling all over my body. Hard not to take advantage of a major chunk of exposed meat covered with salt and sugar from a whole day sweating. Under a seemingly amused moon I quickly put up the tent, throwing mutterred, tired insults against my own, stupid-self. I have spent a large part of my life sleeping outdoors and am still able to commit such a cheap mistake. Once I got rid of most of the unwanted visitors I rapidly fall asleep again - it's past 03H00.

day's technical data : 123 km and 7,5 hours of cycling for average speed of 16,4 km/h, weight of the bike : ca 17 kg + ca 20 kg equipment, temperature : +30°C

08H30 - Je quitte Calvi pour Galeria par la côte. En tout début je tombe sur un couple de deux jeunes cyclistes Britanniques. Nous échangeons des cris d'encouragement au passage. L'air stagne, il n'y a absolument pas de vent et la chaleur monte rapidement. Je m'arrête seulement pour prendre quelques photos. L'île est très verte pour le mois de juin. L'année dernière c'était pareil, mais ce n'est pas l'état habituel pour cette période de l'année. Corse depuis plusieurs années nous a habitués aux couleurs jaunâtres des plantes cuites au soleil. Mais des chutes de neige et pluies abondantes des mois précédents ont permis de préserver cette fraîcheur. La vue est magnifique et non sans rappeler ma destination lointaine - Irlande.
11H30 - Hameau de Fangu (38 km de Calvi) - J'avale des sandwiches (soigneusement préparés la veille par Janka - merci !) avec un coca pour le repas de midi. Devant moi 11 km de montée et la chaleur est là. Même les vaches sont couchées à l'ombre des arbres à cette heure-ci.
13H00 - Bocca di Palmarella (408 m). Ce n'est sûrement pas la première fois dans ma vie que je sens mon corps étouffer avec la chaleur et l'effort, mais cela faisait longtemps.. Heureusement il y a un peu de vent au col (corse : bocca). Un groupe important des Hollandais arrivés par l'autre coté, est déjà la. Ils crient des encouragements lorsque je monte les derniers mètres (merci les gars !) A ce stade, je n'ai pas encore besoin d'encouragements, je me sens plein d'énergie et motivation. A la fin de ce périple je vais avoir besoin de chaque signe de sympathie pour booster mon morale et forcer mon corps douloureux à obéir. Beaucoup de motards et touristes véhiculés essaient de trouver un peu d'ombre sous les petits arbres et arbustes. Des tas de déchets témoignent de passage des hordes des visiteurs s'arrêtant ici. Le panorama est vraiment splendide sur le golfe et le village de Girolata. Le temps de boire un coup et prendre une photo et je quitte cet endroit surpeuplé sans regret pour attaquer la longue descente vers Porto.
13H50 - Bocca a Croce (60 km de Calvi) - Un arrêt pour boire une Orezza menthe à la buvette en bois et apprendre une information importante du gars assis en face "qu'il répare le toit chez François".
15H45 - 2km de Porto (82 km de Calvi). Assis à l'ombre d'un olivier, je mange les pâtes (merci Janka !) et admire une de plus belles vues sur la planète Terre : le golfe de Porto. Et.. j'ai mal au cul.
16H30 - Porto - J'avais prévu de marquer un stop ici pour piquer une tête. Maintenant je décide de ne pas m'arrêter. Il y a beaucoup trop de gens pour moi. Je pars pour une longue montée à Piana.
L'endroit est incroyablement beau avec tout ce granit rose sculpté naturellement et la forêt de pins, dont l'ombre me sauve la vie, pour ne pas évoquer les calanches de Piana. Mais une fois encore - trop de monde pour que je me relaxe. Alors je m'arrête uniquement pour quelques photos et de nouveau je presse sur les pédales vers Cargèse.
20H00 - Cargèse, une halte pour lasagnes bolo et la meilleure bière Corse : la Pietra. C'est le temps de réconfort :-)
21H30 - Je m'arrête à la petite plage sauvage et établis mon bivouac en jetant par terre le matelas auto-gonflable à 20 m des vagues. Je m'endorme immédiatement pour être réveillé quelques heures plus tard par une légion des araignées, tiques, scarabées et fourmis rampant sur tout mon corps. Difficile de ne pas profiter d'un morceau de viande bien exposé et baigné dans la sel et sucre de la sueur du jour. Sous l'oeil vraisemblablement amusé de la Lune je dresse rapidement la tente en marmonnant les insultes fatigués contre ma propre stupidité. J'ai passé une bonne partie de ma vie en couchant dehors et je suis toujours capable de commettre une bêtise si basique. Une fois débarrassé de la plupart des invités-surprise je sombre rapidement dans le sommeil - il est trois heures du mat' passée.

données techniques du jour : 123 km et 7,5 heures de pédalage pour une vitesse moyenne de 16,4 km/h, poids du bicycle : env. 17 kg + env. 20 kg équipement, température : +30°C à l'ombre

08H30 - Wyjezdzam z Calvi w strone Galerii droga nadmorska. Na samym poczatku mijam mloda pare brytyjskich cykloturystow. Motywujemy sie wzajemnie wesolymi okrzykami. Powietrze jest nieruchome, jest absolutnie bezwietrznie i upal rosnie blyskawicznie. Zatrzymuje sie tylko, by zrobic kilka zdjec. Wyspa jest bardzo zielona jak na czerwiec. Rok temu bylo tak samo, ale nie jest to zwyczajny stan rzeczy. Generalnie, o tej porze roku wszystko jest zolte i wyschniete od palacego slonca. Potezne opady sniegu i deszczu z ubieglych miesiecy pomogly utrzymac obecna swiezosc. Widok jest wspanialy i przypominajacy moj odlegly cel - Irlandie.
11H30 - Hameau de Fangu (38 km od Calvi) - Na obiad wciagam kanapki (starannie przygotowane dzien wczesniej przez Janke - dzieki !) zalane coca. Przede mna 11 km podjazdu i upal zbliza sie do zenitu. O tej porze, nawet krowy leza rozplaszczone w cieniu drzew.
13H00 - Bocca di Palmarella (408 m). Na pewno nie po raz pierwszy w zyciu czuje jak moje cialo gotuje sie z goraca i wysilku - ale jest to pierwszy raz od dawna. Na szczescie na przeleczy (korsykanski : bocca) jest troche rzezwiacego wiatru. Jest tez spora grupa rowerzystow z Holandii, jadacych z przeciwnej strony. Wykrzykuja motywujace slowa, kiedy wspinam sie ostatnie metry (dzieki !). Na razie nie potrzebuje jeszcze wspomagania moralnego, czuje sie pelny energii i motywacji. Pod koniec tej podrozy bede potrzebowac kazdego odruchu sympatii by motywowac obolale cialo do posluszenstwa. Wielu turystow zmotoryzowanych probuje znalezc cien pod karlowatymi drzewkami i krzakami (korsykanski : a maccia). Stosy zalegajacych smieci swiadcza o hordach zatrzymujacych sie tu ludzi. Oczywiscie roztaczajaca sie stad panorama na zatoke i wioske Girolatta jest wspaniala. Po wlaniu do siebie wody i zrobieniu zdjecia opuszczam bez zalu przeludnione miejsce by zaatakowac dlugi zjazd w strone Porto.
13H50 - Bocca a Croce (60 km od Calvi) - Przystanek by wlac w siebie jedna "Orezza menthe" w drewnianej szopie i zasiegnac witalnej informacji od siedzacego naprzeciw tubylca o tym ze "naprawia dach u François".
15H45 - 2km od Porto (82 km od Calvi). Siedze w cieniu oliwkowego drzewka, wciagam makaron (dzieki Janka !), podziwiam jeden z najpiekniejszych widokow na naszej planecie : zatoke Porto.. i boli mnie tylek.
16H30 - Porto - Przewidzialem tu krotki przystanek na odswiezajaca kapiel w morzu. Teraz jednak decyduje sie jechac dalej. Jest tu duzo za duzo ludzi jak na moj gust. Startuje do dlugiego podjazdu do Piana.
Miejsce jest nieslychanie ladne z rozowym granitem, naturalnie wyrzezbionym na wszystkie mozliwe sposoby, sosnowym lasem, rzucajacym ratujacy mi zycie cien, nie wspominajac o Calanches de Piana. Ale po raz kolejny z rzedu - zbyt wielu ludzi bym mogl sie zrelaksowac. Zatrzymuje sie tylko pstryknac kilka szybkich fotek i znowu naciskam na pedaly mojego bicykla.
20H00 - Cargèse, przystanek na 'lasagnes bolognaise' i najlepsze korsykanskie piwo : Pietra. Czas na komfort :-)
21H30 - Zatrzymuje sie na malej, dzikiej plazy i rozbijam biwak ; rzucajac na ziemie dmuchany materac, dwadziescia metrow od szumiacych fal. Zasypiam natychmiast, tylko po to, by zbudzic sie pare godzin pozniej, caly obleziony pajakami, kleszczami, zukami i mrowkami. Nie lada gratka : kawal miesa osolony i oslodzony calodziennym potem. Stawiam szybko namiot pod najwyrazniej ubawionym okiem ksiezyca, mamroczac zmeczone przeklenstwa przeciw swojej wlasnej glupocie. Spedzilem spory kawal zycia spiac w terenie i nadal jestem w stanie popelnic tak tani blad. Otrzasam wiekszosc nieproszonych gosci i ponownie, szybko zapadam w sen - jest po trzeciej rano.

dane techniczne dnia : 123 km i 7,5 godzin w siodle, srednia predkosc : 16,4 km/h, ciezar roweru okolo 17 kg + okolo 20 kg sprzetu, temperatura : ponad 30°C w cieniu

Hello !

2009-06-14T03:29:00.000-07:00

After one year long preparation, everything is united and ready.
The bike (arrived two days ago), the camping stuff, the time and the most important : the motivation. The first stage of the trip : Corsica tour begins tomorrow : June, 15 2009.

Après une année de préparation tout semble enfin réuni. Le vélo (arrivé in extremis vendredi dernier), le matériel de voyage, le temps, et bien sûr le plus important : la motivation. Le départ pour la première étape : tour de Corse est prévu pour demain - 15 Juin 2009.

Po roku przygotowan wszystko jest gotowe. Rower (odebrany dwa dni temu), sprzet biwakowy, czas i najwazniejsze : motywacja. Pierwszy etap podrozy : objechanie Korsyki zaczynam jutro : 15 dnia Czerwca 2009.